Frozen Chicken Air

Monday, September 10, 2007

Started training for ice climbing

Last week I started my workout for ice climbing. During previous winters I spent most of my time trying to improve my bouldering performance and training for ice was a sideline activity at best. The bouldering and ice climbing seasons kind of collide but this winter my training focus will be on mixed & ice. I'm still in the process of setting up my training schedule, but below are some articles I've collected.

Jack Robertson (Mountain Guide & Author) has a couple of pdf sheets with training & other tips for winter climbing. Maybe I should have read the one with speed tips for alpine climbing before I set off on a certain climb a few years ago in Norway (blush).

Neil Gresham has written some nice articles about training for winter and mixed climbing. I'll probably do some of the strength training exercises he suggests once I find a cheap fitness center around here.

Training for Peak Performance by Clyde Soles seems a nice enough book about training for (alpine) climbing. Maybe I should create an online wishlist somewhere.

First thing I do whenever I pick up training after a long period of rest is establishing my resting heart rate. This allows me to guard myself from overtraining & gives me a good idea of what my body is doing. Plus, it's a fun thing to see how your heart reacts to stress in everyday life. (Bad hangover, a night of bad dreams vs. a good night's rest, etc ...) Recently, I've started using one of these blood pressure meters to make it easy. You want to measure your heart rate in the morning just after you get out of bed. On most mornings, I'm not awake enough to feel my heartbeat let alone count it. So this little device is a great help, I just leave it on my nightstand with a deck of notecards & a pen.

Another option is to get one of these fancy Polar heart rate monitors. Some of these feature a rest heart rate test mode that makes it even easier. Right now, I'm too broke for that though so a 12 euro cheapo unit will have to do.

Right now, I spend most of my training time building up some basic aerobic capacity. Mostly running & swimming (2km yesterday, yay!). I hope I get strong enough to start doing some trail running soon because there are some nice hills around here I'd like to explore. More about training later.